As I sit at the airport
in Kathmandu
I gaze at the foreigners
and wonder what to do
I almost feel embarrassed
for the foreign race
as they sport all manner
of trekking wear
like their trekking off to space
Oversized lenses
draping round their neck
new polished trekking boots
ready for the trek
Socks and rubber sandals
call the fashion police
because no-one should walk around
in that monotone fleece.
Holi Festival of colour
Wednesday, 30 March 2011
Tuesday, 29 March 2011
What is good behaviour?
As I walked up the long dusty driveway towards Tribuwan University Kathmandu, I was delighted by the sight of around 500 Nepali people with disabilities making their way using all manner of methods. It was impressive to see people not letting their disabilities get in their way of attending the NFDN General Assembly, though the disability friendly access left something to be desired. The two day assembly itself was absolute chaos to say the least and in many ways not very engaging, but I did meet loads of interesting people, practised my Nepali and met a very interesting Nepali photographer who kept me amused for a good few hours and has since become a new friend (in fact I have already convinced him that dressing up in bollywood clothing and cycling to India singing and dancing is a good idea).
It has felt like I have spent a ridiculous amount of time in Kathmandu or there abouts over the last month or so I have only spent one week in Nepalgunj. My visit to Kathmandu this time was lengthened because of an unexpected minor operation. I know, I can’t believe it either, I went to the clinic complaining of a small lump on the back of my head and half an hour later I was lying face down on the operating table with a needle and scalpel in my head having a cyst removed. The doctor showed me the cyst afterwards, there were two small grizzly balls which he popped into a testube for biopsy. So I had to stay a few extra days to get it checked out and then I will return in a week for the stitches to be removed and the results of the biopsy, which fits conveniently with my next jaunt to Nargakot for the volunteer conference-will I ever get any real work done?
I celebrated my 34th Birthday in Kathmandu early and missed all my good old friends back home, its great making new friends but they might not get the....on behalf ut committee, I’d just like to say....thing! When I returned to Nepalgunj I had a lovely birthday wearing a sari, eating dhall baat and momos and I bought a new bike which was better that the last one but the same price as I got my Nepali friend to negotiate the price for me.
It was on my birthday whilst I was perusing the local hardware store waiting for my new bike to be fixed that I bumped into Peggy-another foreigner! In turned out that Peggy is an Australian nurse in her 60’s volunteering in the ‘gunj. I took her number and she later invited me to a birthday party the following Saturday. Saturday came around and I cycled down to meet Peggy, she led me on her scooter to her friends house. It turns out there are seven foreigners living in the ‘gunj and me of course; three Australian, two American, one English and another yet to be identified. It was a joint celebration for five of those foreigners whose birthdays it had been recently, how convenient that it had been my birthday less than a week ago and I was welcomed into the celebration and even had my name iced onto the cake. I had a great evening and was happy to join a new network of friends who were so nice.
The following day I set off with a Nepali friend to visit Chiisopaani Kalali a bridge set in a stunning landscape about 2-3 hours away by motorbike. It was Holi which is a festival celebrated by putting bright chalky colour on peoples face and anywhere else accessible. So I set off thinking, I will definitely get got. We stopped off at my friend’s house to pick up his jumper, but I think it was just an excuse to show off to his family that he had a foreign female friend. We had a great trip and stopped off for dhall baat when we reached the bridge. It was during this time that we got chatting about age and marriage. He asked me why aren’t I married, I thought shit why aren’t I married, I quickly recovered and told him that it’s normal in my culture not to get married in the UK. He told me that he would like to marry a foreigner with ‘good behaviour’. Ok so now this was getting interesting-I am foreign and not married, what a coincidence. But what prey tell is good behaviour? And do I have it?
When I think of good behaviour there are several associations that spring to mind; prisoners being let out early and dogs. I am pretty sure that doing a naked bike ride round Manchester City Centre wouldn’t fit into his idea of a wife with good behaviour.Later whilst at the NFDN General Assembly I met a relative of his from Nepalgunj (it’s a small world) and showed her the photos of our trip and she asked why there weren’t any photos of his wife!
Saturday, 5 March 2011
Are you feeling difficult?...no!
The last month has been a bit of a whirl wind really.
Ke bhayo? (what happened)
Dave and I broke up. We journeyed a long way together and decided that it was time for us to take our own individual paths. Most important to me is that I am not losing a very good friend who means a lot to me and I hope that our friendship will last a life time.
I had my bike stolen. That’s not good, but not unexpected. I will buy a new one.
I went to Kathmandu and carried out our governance programme analysis. Which basically involved looking at the work that volunteers have carried out over the last four years and analysing the results. Then I helped plan a one day review for volunteers and partners (the organisations we work with). I really enjoyed this as it gave me the opportunity to realise what can be achieved during a placement and gave me some really good ideas and motivations. For the review we went to Chitwan National Park, I didn’t really get much chance to see the park, but I really enjoyed the evening when the event finished and we all had an impromptu dance to Nepali music and I brought my hula hoop out, which is always a big curiosity.
Now I am just preparing to go to Nargakot, which is about an hour out of Kathmandu to assist with the delivery of a four day leadership course. I am really looking forward to working with the team of volunteer and the partners, I will learn a lot and hopefully contribute my experience and knowledge to the course.
Also quite unexpectedly my article which was my last blog, got published in the Kathmandu Post, I am really very pleased about this.
I have also had my first experience of load shedding. Basically there is not enough electricity in Nepal to go round at this time of year, so there is a schedule when electricity is and isn’t available. In Kathmandu there is no electricity for 14 hours a day, interesting. But when it is the rainy season there will be more power generated by the hydro power plants. Luckily though in Nepalgunj we get our power from India, so we don’t have load shedding, ekdham raamro.
It has been really nice catching up with other volunteers in Kathmandu and in particular I have enjoyed the hash, which is the running round the countryside outside out Kathmandu for about 15 km. Its great!
The other thing I have been thinking about, is staying in Nepal after my placement finishes as there is so much I love about this country, its early days yet though so lets see how I feel in a years time.
Ke bhayo? (what happened)
Dave and I broke up. We journeyed a long way together and decided that it was time for us to take our own individual paths. Most important to me is that I am not losing a very good friend who means a lot to me and I hope that our friendship will last a life time.
I had my bike stolen. That’s not good, but not unexpected. I will buy a new one.
I went to Kathmandu and carried out our governance programme analysis. Which basically involved looking at the work that volunteers have carried out over the last four years and analysing the results. Then I helped plan a one day review for volunteers and partners (the organisations we work with). I really enjoyed this as it gave me the opportunity to realise what can be achieved during a placement and gave me some really good ideas and motivations. For the review we went to Chitwan National Park, I didn’t really get much chance to see the park, but I really enjoyed the evening when the event finished and we all had an impromptu dance to Nepali music and I brought my hula hoop out, which is always a big curiosity.
Now I am just preparing to go to Nargakot, which is about an hour out of Kathmandu to assist with the delivery of a four day leadership course. I am really looking forward to working with the team of volunteer and the partners, I will learn a lot and hopefully contribute my experience and knowledge to the course.
Also quite unexpectedly my article which was my last blog, got published in the Kathmandu Post, I am really very pleased about this.
I have also had my first experience of load shedding. Basically there is not enough electricity in Nepal to go round at this time of year, so there is a schedule when electricity is and isn’t available. In Kathmandu there is no electricity for 14 hours a day, interesting. But when it is the rainy season there will be more power generated by the hydro power plants. Luckily though in Nepalgunj we get our power from India, so we don’t have load shedding, ekdham raamro.
It has been really nice catching up with other volunteers in Kathmandu and in particular I have enjoyed the hash, which is the running round the countryside outside out Kathmandu for about 15 km. Its great!
The other thing I have been thinking about, is staying in Nepal after my placement finishes as there is so much I love about this country, its early days yet though so lets see how I feel in a years time.
Sunday, 20 February 2011
To Kathmandu Post, re: The Expat Factor
I am writing in response to Sumit Sharma Sameers’ article, ‘The Expat Discourse’, published in the Kathmandu Post on Thursday 16th February 11. This article raised some interesting questions about the role of expats in the management of NGO’s in Nepal. I welcome this debate as I think it is much needed. Whilst expat workers in NGO’s usually get paid at an international rate, rather than local salary it could be assumed that their motivations for working for a Nepali NGO is partly financially motivated, I would agree that this is an area that needs to be scrutinised. However if you are going to question the expat motivation for working for NGO, it would only be fair to question that of Nepali’s aswell. Could all NGO job vacancies be paid at a local rate? If there are Nepali’s that have the expertise in NGO management, then they should be employed and if they don’t have the expertise, then this issue also needs to be addressed. In terms of sustainability of NGO projects, if local people are employed to develop and deliver projects then the knowledge and skills gained will stay local and the local economy will benefit from the employment. But if expat workers are employed for a specific period of time, they will take the skills and potentially some of their income will not be spent locally. However the expertise that they bring could be invaluable to the development of Nepal and have multiple benefits including economic.
There is in fact another aspect to add to this debate, which is the role of expat volunteers in the management of NGO’s and other development aspects, such as education. There are many expat volunteers from developed and developing countries volunteering throughout Nepal with organisations like Voluntary Services Overseas. The motivation of volunteers is quite different from expat NGO workers, as volunteers want to share their skills whilst volunteering with NGO’s in a shared process of learning and respect. Volunteers are not motivated by financial benefits, otherwise they would not be here and receive only a small living allowance. Volunteers also undergo Nepali cultural orientation and language training, which means they are more able integrate into the community and cannot afford a luxurious lifestyle . Volunteers also bring impartiality and a different way of thinking which can be effective in improving the development and management of NGO’s and their ability to deliver effective development within the country.
Expats workers and volunteers both offer objectivity when dealing with the administration of funds to other NGO’s, I have heard from many Nepali NGO workers that Nepali led NGO’s often favour their friends and families when it comes to funding applications, which of course is not the best way of administering funds. And then there is matter of Nepali time, as time moves slowly in Nepal and a meeting arranged at 10:00 may not happen to till 13:00, if at all. The presence of expats can surely only encourage a more efficient work ethic. I am not suggesting that Nepali’s adopt the rat race lifestyle of western countries, which needs to change, just a more efficient method of working, then surely all Nepali’s could have Sunday off too!
Lula Belinfante
VSO Volunteer, UK
There is in fact another aspect to add to this debate, which is the role of expat volunteers in the management of NGO’s and other development aspects, such as education. There are many expat volunteers from developed and developing countries volunteering throughout Nepal with organisations like Voluntary Services Overseas. The motivation of volunteers is quite different from expat NGO workers, as volunteers want to share their skills whilst volunteering with NGO’s in a shared process of learning and respect. Volunteers are not motivated by financial benefits, otherwise they would not be here and receive only a small living allowance. Volunteers also undergo Nepali cultural orientation and language training, which means they are more able integrate into the community and cannot afford a luxurious lifestyle . Volunteers also bring impartiality and a different way of thinking which can be effective in improving the development and management of NGO’s and their ability to deliver effective development within the country.
Expats workers and volunteers both offer objectivity when dealing with the administration of funds to other NGO’s, I have heard from many Nepali NGO workers that Nepali led NGO’s often favour their friends and families when it comes to funding applications, which of course is not the best way of administering funds. And then there is matter of Nepali time, as time moves slowly in Nepal and a meeting arranged at 10:00 may not happen to till 13:00, if at all. The presence of expats can surely only encourage a more efficient work ethic. I am not suggesting that Nepali’s adopt the rat race lifestyle of western countries, which needs to change, just a more efficient method of working, then surely all Nepali’s could have Sunday off too!
Lula Belinfante
VSO Volunteer, UK
Saturday, 12 February 2011
Stars in my eyes
As I set off across the field in the dark with my friend Tika, I hoped that I would not step into one of the many types of faeces available as I was wearing my evening best. Tonight I was going to a ‘Cultural Programme’ fundraiser aka a show. We safely reached the dusty road, dress and shoes intact and jumped on a rickshaw and headed to the hotel where the programme was being held. Tonight was the VIP night and I had somehow managed to gain free entry as I was on the NGO committee, I have to confess that I done very little work to deserve this luxury, because of language barriers.
As we took our seats with the other organisers who also got in for free and the VIP’s who didn’t, I listened to the usual waffle getting a general sense of what was being said, the performances began. The singing was excellent, I have to say Nepali music is beautiful. After sitting restlessly thinking about whether they had bar, I decided that I would join the random man in the aisle for a dance to liven things up. What I had failed to forget is that Nepali’s go ape shit when I dance, particularly in a red sequin sari and everyone cheered. Before I knew it I was being dragged on to the stage, literally and forced to dance I could of died, but I didn’t, I managed to hold it together and a random man from the audience joined me. One song later I exited the stage and bagged myself front row comfy seat for a few songs, whilst I tried to steady myself and straighten my sari.
After a few more acts I made a sharp exit and headed for the buffet, with a drink also in mind. In the UK most people would be drunk by now, but here very few people drink at all, particularly the people I know. This is because of the culture, religion and cost. I necked my food as quickly as possible and headed to the bar for a whisky, this is a safe option because; 1) it can be drunk quickly 2) limits the amount of toilet trips 3) usually cheaper than beer or wine 4) its usually double or tipple the size of shots in the UK.
I went back and seated myself with my friends and had no sooner sat than one of the presenters I had met outside ushered me onto the stage to dance...here we go again. This time I was a lot more at ease though. The singer on stage starting singing about me and the whole audience cheered, god knows what he said, but I think it was good. After what felt an eternity I left the stage and this time I went back stage, which was actually just a curtain to the side of the stage and I met all of the heroes. In Nepal anyone famous is called a hero, it was funny because actually I didn’t know any of them so their fame status was lost on me, but it was fun anyway.
As we took our seats with the other organisers who also got in for free and the VIP’s who didn’t, I listened to the usual waffle getting a general sense of what was being said, the performances began. The singing was excellent, I have to say Nepali music is beautiful. After sitting restlessly thinking about whether they had bar, I decided that I would join the random man in the aisle for a dance to liven things up. What I had failed to forget is that Nepali’s go ape shit when I dance, particularly in a red sequin sari and everyone cheered. Before I knew it I was being dragged on to the stage, literally and forced to dance I could of died, but I didn’t, I managed to hold it together and a random man from the audience joined me. One song later I exited the stage and bagged myself front row comfy seat for a few songs, whilst I tried to steady myself and straighten my sari.
After a few more acts I made a sharp exit and headed for the buffet, with a drink also in mind. In the UK most people would be drunk by now, but here very few people drink at all, particularly the people I know. This is because of the culture, religion and cost. I necked my food as quickly as possible and headed to the bar for a whisky, this is a safe option because; 1) it can be drunk quickly 2) limits the amount of toilet trips 3) usually cheaper than beer or wine 4) its usually double or tipple the size of shots in the UK.
I went back and seated myself with my friends and had no sooner sat than one of the presenters I had met outside ushered me onto the stage to dance...here we go again. This time I was a lot more at ease though. The singer on stage starting singing about me and the whole audience cheered, god knows what he said, but I think it was good. After what felt an eternity I left the stage and this time I went back stage, which was actually just a curtain to the side of the stage and I met all of the heroes. In Nepal anyone famous is called a hero, it was funny because actually I didn’t know any of them so their fame status was lost on me, but it was fun anyway.
Stars in my eyues
As I set off across the field in the dark with my friend Tika, I hoped that I would not step into one of the many types of faeces available as I was wearing my evening best. Tonight I was going to a ‘Cultural Programme’ fundraiser aka a show. We safely reached the dusty road, dress and shoes intact and jumped on a rickshaw and headed to the hotel where the programme was being held. Tonight was the VIP night and I had somehow managed to gain free entry as I was on the NGO committee, I have to confess that I done very little work to deserve this luxury, because of language barriers.
As we took our seats with the other organisers who also got in for free and the VIP’s who didn’t, I listened to the usual waffle getting a general sense of what was being said, the performances began. The singing was excellent, I have to say Nepali music is beautiful. After sitting restlessly thinking about whether they had bar, I decided that I would join the random man in the aisle for a dance to liven things up. What I had failed to forget is that Nepali’s go ape shit when I dance, particularly in a red sequin sari and everyone cheered. Before I knew it I was being dragged on to the stage, literally and forced to dance I could of died, but I didn’t, I managed to hold it together and a random man from the audience joined me. One song later I exited the stage and bagged myself front row comfy seat for a few songs, whilst I tried to steady myself and straighten my sari.
After a few more acts I made a sharp exit and headed for the buffet, with a drink also in mind. In the UK most people would be drunk by now, but here very few people drink at all, particularly the people I know. This is because of the culture, religion and cost. I necked my food as quickly as possible and headed to the bar for a whisky, this is a safe option because; 1) it can be drunk quickly 2) limits the amount of toilet trips 3) usually cheaper than beer or wine 4) its usually double or tipple the size of shots in the UK.
I went back and seated myself with my friends and had no sooner sat than one of the presenters I had met outside ushered me onto the stage to dance...here we go again. This time I was a lot more at ease though. The singer on stage starting singing about me and the whole audience cheered, god knows what he said, but I think it was good. After what felt an eternity I left the stage and this time I went back stage, which was actually just a curtain to the side of the stage and I met all of the heroes. In Nepal anyone famous is called a hero, it was funny because actually I didn’t know any of them so their fame status was lost on me, but it was fun anyway.
As we took our seats with the other organisers who also got in for free and the VIP’s who didn’t, I listened to the usual waffle getting a general sense of what was being said, the performances began. The singing was excellent, I have to say Nepali music is beautiful. After sitting restlessly thinking about whether they had bar, I decided that I would join the random man in the aisle for a dance to liven things up. What I had failed to forget is that Nepali’s go ape shit when I dance, particularly in a red sequin sari and everyone cheered. Before I knew it I was being dragged on to the stage, literally and forced to dance I could of died, but I didn’t, I managed to hold it together and a random man from the audience joined me. One song later I exited the stage and bagged myself front row comfy seat for a few songs, whilst I tried to steady myself and straighten my sari.
After a few more acts I made a sharp exit and headed for the buffet, with a drink also in mind. In the UK most people would be drunk by now, but here very few people drink at all, particularly the people I know. This is because of the culture, religion and cost. I necked my food as quickly as possible and headed to the bar for a whisky, this is a safe option because; 1) it can be drunk quickly 2) limits the amount of toilet trips 3) usually cheaper than beer or wine 4) its usually double or tipple the size of shots in the UK.
I went back and seated myself with my friends and had no sooner sat than one of the presenters I had met outside ushered me onto the stage to dance...here we go again. This time I was a lot more at ease though. The singer on stage starting singing about me and the whole audience cheered, god knows what he said, but I think it was good. After what felt an eternity I left the stage and this time I went back stage, which was actually just a curtain to the side of the stage and I met all of the heroes. In Nepal anyone famous is called a hero, it was funny because actually I didn’t know any of them so their fame status was lost on me, but it was fun anyway.
Wednesday, 2 February 2011
Scene 1
As I walked round the corner towards my house with my friend Deepa, I was met with a worried looking Sita. In the background outside my gate I could see a crowd of armed police men and several random onlookers, my neighbours perhaps. Today I am moving house.
I had handed my notice in to my landlord or at least tried to over the last two weeks. My landlord lives in Kathmandu and speaks little English so a female Nepali VSO colleague had called him on numerous occasions to give him the required 1 months notice. The landlord he had dismissed this notice stating that I had to stay for another 6 months, it became obvious at this point I was dealing with a right dickwad.
Arriving on the scene I realised that the my landlord who will further be referred to as ‘dickwad’, had indeed turned up at the very moment I was due to flee my house and he had found a crowd of armed police and a police vehicle outside his tenants house. What he didn’t know at this point is that I am very good friends with the district chief of police and he had very kindly offered the help of his police and vehicle to help me move, oh the joys of being a female foreigner!
The battle commences
My heart starting pumping as I approached dickwad, who had clearly been hit by a bottle of just for men and the fugly stick. He told me that I couldn’t move as he couldn’t leave his house empty and that I had to stay there. What he didn’t realise is that there was no way I was staying another night in that house, I had mentally already unpacked in my new apartment and was enjoying some more of my landladies delicious daal baat tarkarri (curry, daal and rice). So I told him that I was moving today, it was my choice and my right. He said we will wait for Yam, my old teacher to arrive and then make a decision would be made. Obviously this was not the right thing to say to me as I had clearly already made decision for myself and did not need the assistance of a man to decide on my behalf, this dickwad was clearly not that keen on female decision makers.
Round 2
Meanwhile back at the ranch I call my friend the police chief and ask him to speak to dickwad via the phone telling him he is a prick, yes I had totally lost my cool. Turns out that they know each other. At this point dickwad is rubbing his hands, thinking that his friend the police chief will take his side for sure. The police disappear and there is a lull of activity in which neighbours discuss what is going on. I sit, meditate and shed a tear and my friends tell me they feel sad because I am sad. Then I feel ready for the next round.
The final show down
Some time later my friend the police chief arrives and the three of us are seated outside my house, with him in the middle. My friend asks me what the problem is and I explain, he utters some Nepali to dickwad and then says to me ‘ok you can move now’. I can hardly believe my ears. I find out later that his utterance to dickwad included ‘you cannot make her stay she made her decision to leave.’ He also offers to look after the house until the dickwad is able to come back to re-let it. The dickwad also says, ‘ok you can go’. At which point I want to say, ‘well I was going anyway you dickwad,’ but I keep my cool and say thanks. My friend then requests his police colleagues to transport my good and orders ‘total setup’ of my stuff.
Retreat
I retreat to my house and am greeted with sweet coffee, daal baat tarkaari and decline the offer of ‘total setup’, as I totally want to set up my own things.
The kindness of many over shadow the unkindness of the few.
As I walked round the corner towards my house with my friend Deepa, I was met with a worried looking Sita. In the background outside my gate I could see a crowd of armed police men and several random onlookers, my neighbours perhaps. Today I am moving house.
I had handed my notice in to my landlord or at least tried to over the last two weeks. My landlord lives in Kathmandu and speaks little English so a female Nepali VSO colleague had called him on numerous occasions to give him the required 1 months notice. The landlord he had dismissed this notice stating that I had to stay for another 6 months, it became obvious at this point I was dealing with a right dickwad.
Arriving on the scene I realised that the my landlord who will further be referred to as ‘dickwad’, had indeed turned up at the very moment I was due to flee my house and he had found a crowd of armed police and a police vehicle outside his tenants house. What he didn’t know at this point is that I am very good friends with the district chief of police and he had very kindly offered the help of his police and vehicle to help me move, oh the joys of being a female foreigner!
The battle commences
My heart starting pumping as I approached dickwad, who had clearly been hit by a bottle of just for men and the fugly stick. He told me that I couldn’t move as he couldn’t leave his house empty and that I had to stay there. What he didn’t realise is that there was no way I was staying another night in that house, I had mentally already unpacked in my new apartment and was enjoying some more of my landladies delicious daal baat tarkarri (curry, daal and rice). So I told him that I was moving today, it was my choice and my right. He said we will wait for Yam, my old teacher to arrive and then make a decision would be made. Obviously this was not the right thing to say to me as I had clearly already made decision for myself and did not need the assistance of a man to decide on my behalf, this dickwad was clearly not that keen on female decision makers.
Round 2
Meanwhile back at the ranch I call my friend the police chief and ask him to speak to dickwad via the phone telling him he is a prick, yes I had totally lost my cool. Turns out that they know each other. At this point dickwad is rubbing his hands, thinking that his friend the police chief will take his side for sure. The police disappear and there is a lull of activity in which neighbours discuss what is going on. I sit, meditate and shed a tear and my friends tell me they feel sad because I am sad. Then I feel ready for the next round.
The final show down
Some time later my friend the police chief arrives and the three of us are seated outside my house, with him in the middle. My friend asks me what the problem is and I explain, he utters some Nepali to dickwad and then says to me ‘ok you can move now’. I can hardly believe my ears. I find out later that his utterance to dickwad included ‘you cannot make her stay she made her decision to leave.’ He also offers to look after the house until the dickwad is able to come back to re-let it. The dickwad also says, ‘ok you can go’. At which point I want to say, ‘well I was going anyway you dickwad,’ but I keep my cool and say thanks. My friend then requests his police colleagues to transport my good and orders ‘total setup’ of my stuff.
Retreat
I retreat to my house and am greeted with sweet coffee, daal baat tarkaari and decline the offer of ‘total setup’, as I totally want to set up my own things.
The kindness of many over shadow the unkindness of the few.
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